Felucca in Aswan: how to plan the perfect sail on the Nile

In brief

The felucca is the oldest way of sailing on the Nile, and Aswan is where it makes the most sense: the river winds between islands and granite boulders, facing the dunes of the west bank. Here is how to choose the time, the route and the boat to really enjoy it.

• What: a traditional wooden sailing boat with no engine, usually skippered by a Nubian captain
• Where: between the islands and granite rocks of the First Cataract, right in front of the town
• Length: one to three hours, with an hour and a half as the right balance
• Best time: late afternoon, for the sunset over the west bank
• Price: negotiated per boat and per hour, never per person
• With us: can be added on request to any cruise or tour that stops in Aswan

What is a felucca and why sail one in Aswan?

The felucca is a flat bottomed wooden sailing boat rigged with a large triangular lateen sail. It has neither engine nor cabin: you settle on cushions, sheltered by a small awning. These boats once carried goods along the river. Today they mostly take travellers out on the water, led by a captain known as the rais.

Aswan is the best place in Egypt to try it. At the First Cataract the Nile widens and splits between islands, water polished granite rocks and banks where the desert comes right down to the river. In Luxor a felucca is still pleasant, but the landscape is flatter and cruise boat traffic is heavier.

What route does a felucca ride in Aswan follow?

The classic loop leaves from the Corniche in front of the town, sails around Elephantine Island and then along Kitchener's Island. The exact route depends on the wind: the rais tacks and adjusts his course, which is precisely the charm of sailing.

A stop is often possible, on Kitchener's Island for a walk in the garden or on the west bank to climb up to the Tombs of the Nobles. The Nubian village of Gharb Soheil, further south, is better reached by motorboat: under sail and against the current, the round trip would take a good part of the day.

• Elephantine Island, its Nubian villages with colourful houses and the ruins of ancient Yeb
• Kitchener's Island and its botanical garden, planted with species from Africa and Asia
• The Mausoleum of the Aga Khan on the west bank hill, best admired from the water as the interior is not open to the public
• The Tombs of the Nobles at Qubbet el-Hawa, cut into the west bank cliff
• The granite boulders of the First Cataract, the same stone as the obelisks
• The Old Cataract hotel and its terrace, where Agatha Christie stayed

When is the best time for a felucca ride in Aswan?

Late afternoon is the most sought after time. You board an hour to an hour and a half before sunset, when the heat eases and the light turns the west bank dunes golden. The north wind, which prevails on this stretch of the river, usually lets you sail for real.

Early morning is an excellent alternative, quieter and cooler, with soft light and plenty of birds along the banks. From October to April any time of day works. From May to September, avoid the middle of the day at all costs: temperatures in Aswan then regularly exceed forty degrees Celsius.

How long does a felucca ride last and how is the price set?

Allow at least an hour to sail around Elephantine Island, an hour and a half to two hours to add Kitchener's Island and enjoy the sunset without rushing, and three hours if you plan a stop ashore. Beyond that the pleasure fades: a felucca has no toilet and little real protection from the sun.

The price is set per boat and per hour, not per person, and is negotiated before boarding. Agree on four points: duration, route, any stops and the total amount, stating the currency. When there is no wind, the felucca is sometimes towed by a motorboat, so it is worth knowing in advance. When you add it to a trip with us, the felucca is booked ahead and its price is in the quote: nothing to negotiate on the spot.

Can you take a multi day felucca cruise?

Yes. Feluccas leave Aswan for two to three days of sailing north towards Kom Ombo and Edfu. You sleep on deck, on mattresses, under the stars, and the crew cooks on board. A car then takes over to Luxor, as the full journey depends too much on the wind to keep to a schedule.

It is a wonderful experience for independent travellers who are not demanding about comfort: there is usually no shower and no proper toilet, and December and January nights are cool on the water. To sail with cabins and a bathroom, a dahabiya is the right compromise. To see as many sites as possible in a short time, a classic cruise remains more efficient.

What precautions should you take on board a felucca?

A felucca ride is a calm and safe activity, suitable for children and older travellers alike. Boarding is from a jetty or straight from the bank: you just need to be able to step over the side of the boat. A few simple habits make the outing more pleasant.

• Ask for life jackets for children, as they are not always on board by default
• Do not swim in the Nile, because of the risk of bilharzia
• Bring a hat, sunscreen and water: the awning gives limited shade
• Take a light jumper in winter, the air cools quickly at sunset
• Keep a few Egyptian pound notes for the rais's tip
• Keep your phone and camera in a bag: the felucca heels over when it catches the wind

What do our Egyptologists recommend for a felucca in Aswan?

Do not squeeze the felucca between two visits on the day you arrive: give it a whole late afternoon with nothing planned afterwards. The best moment often comes when the wind drops and the rais brings out a drum or starts a Nubian song. And if young boys paddle up on small boards singing, it is not a trap: it is an Aswan tradition, and a coin makes them happy.